In LiveView, the gain is only applied to the YUV image (it does not affect the 14-bit raw data at all), but in photo mode, the gain is burned into the raw data.
These ISOs are obtained by applying some digital gain to the raw data acquired at the nearest full-stop ISO, and this gain is configured from the DIGIC register 0xC0F08030 (SHAD GAIN). Here's a little taste of that:Īs expected, intermediate ISOs like 160 or 250 do not cause any changes in ADTG/CMOS configuration. This may never be something you use on a daily basis because of these issues, but for some instances, if you need the dynamic range, this could work very, very well, and there won't be the strange motion issues that come from HDR and combining pixels.Ī1ex has written a mathematically dense but extremely informative PDF explaining the situation and what was done in order to achieve this as well as how the images can be processed to look better. You are more at risk for aliasing and moire since the sensor is now being sampled differently, and you're also losing 5x and 10x zoom to check focus. You also are losing some resolution with this mode, as you are halving resolution in the highlights and the shadows. My 5D3 is still alive after roughly one week of playing with this, but that's not a guarantee. Therefore, it's safe to assume it can fry the sensor or do other nasty things. In the technical doc you can see how this method messes with the feedback loop for optical black, for example. This code changes low-level sensor parameters. This is not something you want to mess around with lightly. This is a pretty serious change in the way the camera is exposing a normal image. So what are the downsides? For starters, this is not like Magic Lantern RAW, where the team has simply grabbed what the camera is already doing. To get a natural HDR look: try my automatic color grading script. For RAW video files: latest raw2dng.exe. It requires dcraw and (optional) exiftool in your path. For CR2 files: cr2hdr.c (Windows: cr2hdr.exe).
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